The Way of St. James #59

I was up as early as I dared, before most of the other pelegrinos, and trying not to wake them. Breakfast in this albergue is at 08:00, and I was there on time. Dawn in this region at this time of year does not come until about 08:15, so it was still quite dark as I made my way to the dining area. Naturally, Ernesto was there tmake sure everything was in order, and to wish everyone “Buen Camino”.

I said goodbye to my fellow pelegrinos and headed out on the road. Many of them were only going as far as Santander, and the discussions over breakfast were about the weather and the best route to Santander. There was general agreement that if the weather was good, the longer coastal route was preferable, but in bad weather, the most direct route along the main road might be best. I wondered if I would see any of them again along the way. As it happened, I saw them no more.

The route follows the road from Güemes to Galizano. On the way, I was faced by a squally shower that seemed part rain, part hail, and I was forced to get out the raingear again. But just before that, I actually got my first glimpse of Santander in the distance, actually seeming as if the sunlight was picking it out for my benefit. As I went on, the rain stopped, but the wind was blowing a gale as I left Galizano and headed out on the coastal route.

The coastal route is not exactly barren, but there is a noticeable absence of trees in the landscape. Whether this is a result of the prevailing wind, or simply the way the land is managed is impossible to say, but it meant I was walking into a strong wind all the way along this section.

And so I came to Loredo, just one vowel different from the town where I stayed a couple of nights ago. Just after Loredo, the trail rejoins the shorter route that follows the main road and reaches Somo. From there, a causeway and bridge go over the Ria de Cubas to Pedraña. Just as I was reaching the harbour at Pedraña, another squall came in, so severe that I could not be sure if the ferries would even run in such weather. But these sturdy little boats seem well practiced for the conditions, and my ferry arrived on time to bring me across the bay to Santander.

I had decided not to stop in Santander, but to continue on the trail. My reasoning was that the stage immediately after Santander is listed as 31km. When I come back, as I fully intend to, I would rather not start with such a long stage, so I had arranged to get to a village a little farther out. I would have liked to visit the cathedral in Santander, but by the time I reached it, it was closed. I headed onwards.

The trail first follows one of Santander’s boulevards, lined with banks and well-known brand-name shops. This transitions into residential areas, and then to the usual edge of town mixture of car dealerships, furniture showrooms and other similar establishments. For several kilometers there was nothing interesting, but I did find a little taverna where I had a good lunch. Nevertheless, even when I did reach a semi-rural landscape, the rain came in, affecting the view.